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A Candy Bomber in Berlin

Berlin Candy Bomber
A Douglas C47 aka “Candy Bomber” at the German Technical Museum in Berlin photographed Straight Up by Cameron R Neilson

As a kid, Halloween was always about the candy.  Putting on face paint and dawning some scary costume, trick-or-treating my way through the neighborhoods, was a small price to pay for my favorite type of candy:  free candy.  In the disastrous wake of the 2012 Super Storm Sandy, governor Chris Christie has, for good reason, cancelled Halloween for the kids of New Jersey.  At least he’s rescheduled it to next week November 5th.  Rewinding to my childhood brain, this would certainly have driven me, and my parents, nuts.  Disaster and Halloween bring light to today’s image:  The Candy Bomber of Berlin.  The Douglas C47 airplane mounted on top of the German Museum of Technology aka “The Candy Bomber” is in remembrance of the late 1940’s airlift.  Here is the happy story.

After the second world war Berlin was divided with the east being controlled by the Soviet Union, and the west controlled by the Allied Forces of England, France, and the United States.  In June of 1948, the Soviets blocked all access for supplies (gas, food, etc) to the residents of West Berlin with the intent that supplies be routed through, and controlled by them–effectively giving them control of the whole city.  The allies, of course, wouldn’t stand for this and coordinated a massive airlift of supplies to West Berlin at the Templehof Airport.

One day a curious pilot, Gail Halverson, took note of an observant group of Germans at the end of the runway.  He delighted chatting with them and gave away two pieces of Wrigley’s Spearmint gum telling them he’d bring more if they’d share.  Later, Gail fashioned several handkerchiefs into mini-parachutes, attached these to candy, and dropped them to the children below.  They could identify his plane by his trademark wiggling of the wings. The un-official-at-first operation was finally recognized by top brass and thus began the Candy Bombers.   All tolled, 25 C47 aircraft dropped 23 tons of candy to the kids below making it a small, but wonderful fraction of the successful airlift. (source:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gail_Halvorsen).

Here is a link to a fun video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d7eOF8-4gw

I can imagine lots of kids saw a view straight up of a C47 in 1948-1949.  Maybe Governor Christie should have dropped some candy from the helicopter as he surveyed the storm damage from Hurricane Sandy.  Candy seems to always makes things better for a kid.

On a side note:  My preferred method of exploring cities for the Straight Up series is by foot.  Half the fun is getting lost and discovering different neighborhoods along the way.  To get this image, I walked from the Zoologischer Garten Bahnhof along the Kurfürstendamm Strasse and eventually along another road named the Kurfürstenstrasse.  It’s quite a long walk and inadvertently enough, this second street, near the end,  is where you can actually find girls–probably named Candy–who offer all sorts of services and tricks.  It was almost scary, but actually funny and oddly ironic….the last time I was approached by a nearly sexy but very scantily clad girl in high heels was, oh yeah…last Halloween.

Happy Halloween.

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Venice: a city built on water, and sinking

Venice, Italy
Venice, Italy photographed Straight Up by Cameron R Neilson

This past week I watched hourly satellite images animate the dramatic path of Hurricane Sandy as it twisted north to collide with a Canadian cold front from the northwest and another weather system from the east. The joint combination squeezed Sandy onshore into New Jersey, blowing strong winds everywhere, wreaking havoc, and creating a massive storm surge at high tide where I live–New York City. Fortunately I was safe in Portland, Oregon, having just returned from a month long photography tour in Europe. This storm surge, however, created something very unique and devastating in New York City–record breaking flood waters. As waters squeezed into the subterranean spaces and streets of Manhattan from the East River, Hudson River, and New York Harbor, I think of a city I travelled to recently: Venice.

Venice is amazingly beautiful, picturesque, romantic, historical, and sinking: more precisely, the water around Venice is rising. There are contrasting thoughts on this concept, but Venice is certainly influenced by tidal waters and seems to have floods earlier than normal. The day before my departure (October 14th) water was already flowing up through the drains and beginning to flood St Marks Square. Regardless of the water, the narrow winding streets, back alleys, and surrounding buildings create exciting subject matter for Straight Up images.

Today’s image reflects nicely on Venice for the simple fact that of the 400 or so foot bridges spanning the canals there wasn’t one I could get under to photograph straight up. Maybe I didn’t look hard enough and standing in a canal isn’t an ideal option. A boat may have worked, but ensuring a perfectly level camera, free of any camera shake, for a one second exposure, would be really difficult to achieve. So I walked the streets and enjoyed photographing the variety of spaces created by the buildings and avoided the temptation to turn the camera horizontal and photograph the normal scenes.

These two arches, spanning opposite buildings, remind me of the hundreds of foot bridges in Venice. Throughout Europe, I’ve seen many arches: single arches, horizontal arches, but never two across a diagonal. This image reflects some of the unique patterns found exclusively in Venice. As I sit dry, drinking coffee, thinking of my friends in NYC and hoping they get power, safe water, and food, I recall the wonderful time in Venice. As water lapped my feet in St Marks Square, and in light of recent stormy events, I wonder what Venice would be like if a storm like Sandy were to hit.

I’m afraid we’ll see flooding more frequently again and again as global warming continues to raise sea levels and make summer, winter, fall and spring, more dramatic with ever increasingly intense storms. It’s amazing how our timeframe for understanding long-term effects is hampered by our limited ability to see long-term meteorologic patterns. Watching animated weather patterns for 72 hours is nothing compared to understanding weather processes spanning hundreds of years. The hurricane-turned-super-storm Sandy aka “Frankenstorm” is certainly a grim reminder that weather patterns have altered. Buildings can often manage the ebb and flow of flood waters as seen in Venice, and sometimes not, evidenced this past day in New Jersey and New York. One country that seems to do well in keeping water at bay and even creating new land with solid structure, is Holland…but that is a post for another day.

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Turning Torso by Santiago Calatrava in Malmö

Turning Torso by Santiago Calatrava in Malmö Sweden
Turning Torso by Santiago Calatrava in Malmö Sweden photographed Straight Up by Cameron R Neilson

If there ever was a spine on a building, this is it. Designed to visually mimic a twisting torso, this building stands tall at 190 meters and is Sweden’s tallest skyscraper. It is a treat to see. This work located in Malmö, Sweden, and titled the “Turning Torso” by architect Santiago Calatrava towers over a neighborhood of three story condominiums and is a bit lonely by istelf. With no other building to juxtapose against, I had to use this lowly street lamp to complete the composition.

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Cubist lamp post in Prague

Cubist Lamp Post in Prague
Cubist Lamp Post in Prague, Czech Republic. Photographer straight up by Cameron R Neilson

I have a little time tonight to reflect back on the seventeen cities I visited and photographed this past month. Once back in NYC I will begin posting more images from Barcelona, Madrid, Paris, Brussles, Rotterdam, Amsterdam, Oslo, Stockholm, Mälmo, Copenhagen, Hamburg, Berlin, Arezzo, Florence, Venice, Vienna, Budapest, and Prague. I’ve traveled by plane, train, ferry, car, and saved Prague as my last city for Straight Up.

Prague has changed immensely in the past ten years and I was very eager to get a good start on the day. To shoot Straight Up in Prague it’s best to get up early (every city for that matter). It’s even better on the weekends when people sleep in. The crowds of tourists in the past ten years have gotten to an almost overwhelming state, and by 11:00AM Prague was overrun!

This lamppost is an example of cubist architecture and I was very eager to see how it would render among the surrounding buildings and the shape it would create. As always the camera is perfectly level, looking straight up, and I pondered whether the lamp post, and its horizontal plane could be the grounding element. I have a standing rule: something in the frame has to be parallel to the image edge–angles can get crazy otherwise. Luckily the lamppost has both horizontal planes, and acts as a totem centered in the frame. I had just enough time, surprisingly by myself, to make the image before diverging tour groups amassed on the scene. For all my gripes, I think tourism has been good for Prague–the extra revenue has helped preserve some of my favorite buildings and structures, including this lamppost which was in great condition and didn’t smell like the men’s bathroom at a packed beer hall–like it did ten years ago.

Now for something a little different:

I’ve had to run to make almost every train this trip–generally arriving on the platform with two minutes to spare. Tonight was no different, except I made it to the platform 2 minutes and 24 hours early. For some reason I had convinced myself that I was leaving Prague tonight! Wrong.

I was confused that car number 171 wasn’t part of the line-up so I jumped into car 172. I showed the conductor my reservation, we spoke in German, and he scratched his head since the door wasn’t open–normally done to welcome you. He showed me to my single room, confusing me, since I’m supposed to be in a three person shared compartment. At this point the train had left the station. Finally, looking at the ticket we realized I was 24 hours early, that the person whose room I was in would board in two hours, and I would have no place to sleep. He showed me a reclining seat I could sleep in–I thought no way! The train at this point just arrived at the last station in Prague before Berlin and I jumped out at the last second and took the Metro back into town.

This is actually the best news I could have had!

First, I didn’t want to leave Prague, and second, the whole AM photo shoot was done on a compact flash card card that rendered itself completely corrupt around noon. It’s the first time this has happened to me. It cannot be accessed by either the camera or computer. Once back in NYC I will attempt to reformat it in another camera and try data recovery. But with my train mistake, I get to wander my AM route again and do the photos again.

The cubist lamppost is from yesterday.

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Where’s Waldo in Berlin, Germany

Ferneshturm in Berlin, Germany
Ferneshturm in Berlin, Germany photographed by Cameron R Neilson

The television tower, or Fernsehturm, is the large radio tower in the heart of Berlin. Located on Alexanderplatz, it is a striking symbol of the of the former East Germany and the second tallest structure in Europe. I’ve been visiting this site since the summer of 1991 and it is striking so see how the place has changed–all but Waldo. Waldo is the name I and others have given to the TV tower since it is crowned with a red and white stripe tower–like the famous hat of the character Waldo in the illustrated book of Where’s Waldo. When lost in Berlin, you can generally spot Waldo and figure out where you. The base of the tower has a some very interesting architecture which was a fun challenge to incorporate Straight Up.

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Amsterdam

Amsterdam
Amsterdam, Netherlands, photographed Straight Up by Cameron R Neilson

Walking around Amsterdam is a visual treat! Not only is it a gorgeous cobblestoned city, it is incredibly accessible: touch the buildings, reach the sky, and traverse its center all at once and in no time at all. It’s also a city with few limits, proven while taking in fresh air with the occasional waft of cannabis or turning a corner to see scantily clad girls standing in windows with red lights. It’s certainly a city where people can take trips, and it not hard to imagine people lying on their backs looking straight up, pondering the world, half-baked. True, this is just a small section of the city, and most likely tourists, but where the old architecture stands, this sometimes is the case.

What is truly amazing about the old part of the city are the hoists on each building. Apparently the doorways and staircases are so narrow that furniture, etc has to be hoisted and loaded through windows. The shapes of the roofline, and hoist architecture are very exciting and contribute to interesting spaces between the buildings. I particularly like the street lamp in the middle.